From Leland, Mississippi we hit the ‘frog & toad’ again. This time for Memphis. When we got there we got a surprise to find out Memphis is a border town and our RV park was in West Memphis, Arkansas. So here we were camped again on the banks of the Mississippi River watching the barges go by. These barges are gigantic holding 1500 tons and measuring almost 200 ft (60 mtrs) long, 35 ft (10 mtrs) wide. We were gobsmacked to see several ‘push boats’ pushing along a flotilla 4 barges wide and 7 barges long. Think about that! That’s 420 mtrs + tug or nearly half a kilometre long. Take a look at the 3rd photo. That barge is full of gravel sitting 9 ft under the waterline fighting an 8 mph current. Living on the banks of the Mississippi is not a difficult thing especially with sunrises and sunsets like these.
The next day we headed off to the National Metal Museum which turned out to be something very different. We even noticed another Indian Mound in the park directly opposite. After checking out the metal work we took off to a place recommended by the RV park receptionist, the Bass Pro pyramid and glass observation deck. Whoa, this place will blow you away. It is basically an outdoor sports store. It has a freestanding lift that takes you to the rooftop bar with a glass observation deck. It also has live alligators, huge aquariums, ducks and geese, restaurants, a hotel, ten pin bowling alleys, a lake to sell their boats and so much more. (We’ve since been told it isn’t the largest Bass Pro store in the chain.) Also with Memphis being in the bible belt there has been a number of giant sized churches of all persuasions too. We later attended a community street fair called Cooper-Young Festival which was attended by approximately 130,000 people. When we got home that day we had new neighbours in the park. 3 young Aussie women from Perth who were driving from Washington to L.A. and had stopped at Memphis to visit Graceland. If you ladies are reading this then “Hello again Jenny, Jane & Annette”.
Every town has it’s entertainment strip and Memphis being part of the “Music Triangle” (Nashville – New Orleans – Memphis) has Beale Street. We had a wander along Beale Street during the day and recognised many names on the clubs. Only three nights earlier some punter was shot and killed at the Purple Haze Nightclub (see photos) so it was a bit deserted. Nonetheless we enjoyed the walk and especially the malted milk shakes from Schwab’s. Of interest is the two photos of the Memphis Police Department Entertainment District Unit. Following the shooting there was definitely a police presence on the street.
Now on to Graceland. I’ll write on this in two parts. Firstly the Graceland Tourist Facility which is across the road from Graceland, the mansion. The tourist facility is a large complex which typifies the American “lets-make-a-buck” attitude. Everything you can imagine is for sale from Elvis Xmas decorations to Elvis socks, jocks and jumpers. Elvis sunglasses, calendars, salt & peppers sets, posters, CD’s, hats, sauces. You name it they sell it. Oh yeah, they have 12 Elvis museums. There’s the Elvis in the Army museum, the People Elvis Influenced museum, Elvis Motors museum, Elvis’s planes museum, Elvis (the TV Series) production set, and others I can’t remember. I’ll leave you to peruse the photos yourself. At anytime during your visit you can board a shuttle that will take you across the road to Graceland the Mansion (provided you’ve paid for a ticket).
What struck Shane and I most about the mansion is the plainness of it compared to today’s standards. For a start it (the house) really isn’t all that big. Considering what we’ve seen at Palm Beach, Tampa and other coastal cities I wonder if this is a cultural thing (ie coast Vs country) or just a sign of the times. I believe the latter and I think those who bleat about how tough they have it today need to look at what life was like a generation or two ago and reconsider their situation.
Once in the front door you can see the opulence of the day in the living room where the lounge was tailor made for this room as were many other pieces. We move on to Elvis’s parents bedroom through the dining room (which Lisa-Marie still uses when she is in Memphis) and the kitchen. Down stairs (upstairs is closed to the public and again Lisa-Marie could be up there anytime she is in town) we passed through a den, the pool room, “the Jungle Room” before heading out the back to Vern’s Office and a recording studio. To the side is a small den used as a pistol range before going outside to view the rear acreage and several of the estate’s horses.
Our tour then takes us to the “Trophy Room” where many artefacts are on display from Elvis’ birth certificate to a pistol he owned. Attached to this room is the racquetball court where Elvis was when he first began to feel ill just a short while before his death. We’re then led out to the swimming pool area and behind that is the burial plots of the family. The pathway then takes you back out to the front of the house where you reboard the shuttle to return across the road to the “Park” area.
As I mentioned at the start of this section the ordinariness of the mansion is sobering and it makes you wonder that with all his wealth just how much he must have followed his career for love rather than the cash. The house is not huge. The kitchen which the Presleys still use today is not over the top. Our swimming pool back in Townsville was as big as his (though we didn’t have a diving board). Yes, there are lots of rooms and touches of glamour and wealth but nothing like you’d expect from probably the most famous entertainer in history. One elephant in the room that Shane and I noticed (even not being huge Elvis fans) was that we only saw Priscilla mentioned once the entire day. It is almost as if she didn’t exist and we wondered why?
I hope you enjoyed this wrap up of Memphis and Graceland. It certainly is a city worth a visit. Keep your eyes peeled for the next blog. Our trip to St Louis Missouri and this wonderful city may even turn up in two blogs to cover it all.
Cheers for now
Garry & Shane
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